“At the time, Joseph Robert was the chief perfumer at Chiris. In fact No5 has Russian roots, and was developed by Ernest Beux the French and Russian perfumer who knew Chanel’s lover, the Grand Duke. The Russian connections in her life lead to much of her success. She was a successful business woman, and even managed to achieve social prominence due to the connections she made. At first only 100 flacons had been made, but the perfume proved to be a success and was in demand after it’s creation in 1921.The perfume was one of the many strategic business moves Coco Chanel would make (She was one of the first to put her own name on a perfume label). The perfume which still remains a classic today was originally made to be given to clients as Christmas gifts. Not many perfumes can come close to rivalling Chanel No5’s infamy. (But first, excuse my Russian) “The way, for instance, that Chanel liberated Stravinsky sexually and the way he liberated her socially and culturally.” Coco and Igor” – Vogue It’s a quote by author Chris Greenhalgh on his interpretation of Coco and Igor’s romance. I will only leave you with a small tid-bit about this romance. The romance may have lasted only a few months and has been in the center of criticism. There was a rumour that she had an affair with the composer, Igor Stravisnky. The historical link between Chanel and Russia provided the catalyst for Paris-Moscou, the house’s 2008 Métiers d’Arts collection which lies at the center of Karl Lagerfeld: Chanel’s Russian Connection book.” – Planet MagĬoco’s Russian liaisons did not end with Dmitri. Mademoiselle’s affinity for the Ballets Russe and the opulence of Byzantine jewelry resulted in a Russian influence that emerged in her designs. “During Coco Chanel’s lifetime, her growing wealth and social status allowed her to flit around the globe, immersing herself in myriad aspects of foreign culture later to be distilled in future collections. Oh and that headscarf from Chanel was inspired by the fashion of babushkas, matching dress included.Ĭoco and the exiled Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia. To add a detailed visual, the collections included loose shift dresses, waistcoats, and blouses alluding to the Russian peasant attire known as the roubachka. The use of kitmir’s folk motifs were used, and the collections included garments modelled after the Russian fashion.
Chanel’s early collections from the years 1922 to 1923, is where Coco took advantage of the Russian influences in her life. Their romance began in the summer of 1921, the two spent their time together discreetly in Monte Carlo. Kitmir was a business owned by the Grand Duchess Marie Pavlovna, the sister of Chanel’s Russian lover, Duke Dmitri. In the early collections of Chanel, beading and embroidery were carried out by the embroidery house Kitmir. One of Coco’s famed romances was with the exiled Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, grandson of Russia’s Tsar Alexander II. Chanel wasn’t the only French designer to be inspired by Russia, in her case it also involved Russian men. Like Christian Dior who had his ‘own amorous affair with Russia’. Excuse my Russian, but Chanel wouldn’t be the same as we know it today without the Russian influences in Coco’s early life. Today many of us see the luxury label as French.
But, what is more intriguing is that Coco mania had these women trading in their diamonds in favour of Chanel’s covetable fake pearls. The French atelier’s masculine touches, and modest demeanour appealed to aristocratic woman who now wanted to wear tailor made suits. In this style revolution women would start to wear trousers, and clothing made of jersey (a fabric often reserved for the making of mens underwear). Her atelier specialized in modest clothing, inspired by menswear and an active lifestyle. Double C logos, pleated handbags and tweed blazers aside, Coco Chanel lived at the right time to revolutionize the way women dressed. Coco ‘Gabrielle’ Chanel is undeniably one of the greatest prolific, and talented couturiers of the 20th century.
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